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This fragrant side dish was born out of an argument between Bruce Aidells and Nancy Oakes on whether an entire head of cauliflower could be filled like dolma, the Middle Eastern family of stuffed grape leaves and vegetable dishes. “Nancy thought it could be done; I didn’t,” he says. Aidells turns the idea of dolma inside out by topping a rice casserole with cauliflower florets. “I’m the lazy, more practical cook,” Aidells says.