Tom Colicchio's Dinner Party
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One of the first things Colicchio learned to cook, when he was about 13, was a dish of cold mussels and tarragon created by the former New York Times food writer Pierre Franey. “You usually see mussels hot, never cold in a vinaigrette,” he says. On the North Fork, Colicchio buys his mussels at the Southold Fish Market, where the locals shop.