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When Suzanne Goin was a child, making stuffing for the holidays was one of her first forays into cooking. “My mom always used store-bought crumbs, and it became my job to doctor them up,” says Goin. “I’d just raid the spice cabinet and the first batches were a little crazy. But I figured out what I liked best.” This chestnut-laced stuffing with pancetta and fennel is adapted from Sunday Suppers at Lucques. The crispy olive oil-soaked bread cubes on top are especially delectable.