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Foams may seem passé, an overused chef trick. But their airy consistency can help make a good dish great. Consider the blue-cheese foam here, made by loading a homemade blue-cheese dressing into a siphon and charging it with gas. Whether you’re serving the blue-cheese foam with an iceberg-lettuce wedge that is all about cool crunch, or eating it with hot and crispy chicken wings, the light and frothy texture is a wonderful contrast.