Change can be slow to come to the Eternal City, where the best version of something is often the most ancient. But the people behind these five spots dare to mess with tradition, with thrilling results.—Elizabeth Minchilli
Left: It’s worth a trip to the city’s outskirts for Sforno’s puffy Neapolitan-style crusts and decidedly Roman toppings. The cacio e pepe, inspired by the iconic pasta dish, is covered in ground black pepper and drifts of pecorino. Via Statilio Ottato 110/116; sforno.it.
Photo © Andrea Wyner.SEE MORE