Chef Dean Maupin thinks most things taste better with smoky bacon. These bacon-garnished briny clams
, steamed in Virginia's fruity and floral Viognier, are such a big hit that he serves them regularly during the cooler spring and fall months. That's when the clams he likes from Willis Wharf, a small fishing town on the Eastern Shore of Virginia, are best. Try serving them with the wine they're steamed in.