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In the late 1990s, Octavio Becerra fell in love with Middle Eastern flavors while helping his friend Nayla Audi open Atlas Café in Beirut, Lebanon. The rub on this pork is his take on za'atar, a spice blend that gets its pungency from ground sumac. Becerra remembers, "Everyone in Beirut had his or her own version of za'atar," so he suggests experimenting with the ratios of spices to see what tastes best.