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Paula Wolfert Rediscovers Marrakech

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Djemaa el Fna

Djemaa el Fna: Marrakech Street Food

Marrakech's centuries-old central square in the Medina offers some of the city's best food at stalls identified only by number; stall 30 serves wonderful grilled merguez. The square can get crowded with henna painters, acrobats and snake charmers, as well as vendors who might give tourists a very hard sell. Paula Wolfert, however, says no kindly—and effectively—with the Moroccan phrase La, barak Allaho fik: "It means, 'God will grant you every wish if you leave me alone,'" she says.

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