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This extremely flexible recipe can be adapted to include several different kinds of seasonal vegetables. In winter and spring, Salvatore Denaro might make it with Umbria's small, violet-colored artichokes; in the fall he prefers cauliflower or broccoli. A pretty alternative is pasta con cavolfiore e broccoli siciliani, with equal parts cauliflower and broccoli; the dish is also terrific made with leeks alone.