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I love superripe pears. Our cook Mayme Gretsch turns them into an ice, freezes it in pear-shaped molds, then puts chocolate stems on top. It comes with black walnut, cardamom meringues and Fernet-Branca gelée; Josh and I love Fernet. This dessert is so cool: The flavors somehow team up to taste like banana. thecatbirdseatrestaurant.com.