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Charles Phan thinks these French-Vietnamese sandwiches, banh mi, "are fusion food at its best." This particular recipe is inspired by a tiny sandwich shop Phan happened upon in Hoi An, Vietnam, that stays open until 4 a.m. Not only does the owner of the shop make his own pâté, he also soaks his pork overnight in a garlicky brine before roasting it, as Phan does here.