In Morocco, the mountains of the Middle Atlas region are the only source for trout. "It's so high up, you can go skiing there," Paula Wolfert says. "Parts of the region look like Switzerland." This light, brothy dish reminded her of one she had at famed French chef Michel Bras's restaurant in southwestern France. In fact, she uses his method here, poaching the fish gently in a preserved-lemon broth so the texture stays silky.