These amazing recipes include foie gras steamed clams and cavatelli with mussels, lillet, and dill.
Food & Wine
September 14, 2012
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Smoky Clam Chowder
Nicki Reiss set out to develop this hearty, healthful, tomato-packed clam chowder based on flavors she enjoyed on a trip to Spain. As an alternative to smoky (and fatty) chorizo, Reiss turned to soyrizo (available at melissas.com), her favorite soy-based vegetarian sausage.
Crispy, briny and juicy, these ingenious mussels are a simple and unexpected fall dish; they're just as delicious roasted or grilled. Threading the shelled mussels onto skewers makes them easier to handle.
It's not uncommon in Galicia to have a meal that consists of lots of different shellfish, bread and nothing else. Encarna Méndez of Do Ferreiro winery prepares clams the fisherman's way: steamed in Albariño with onion and garlic.
Chef Seamus Mullen cooks the rice for this chicken-and-seafood paella as if it were risotto, adding chicken stock gradually. To save time, stir stock or canned chicken broth into the rice all at once and cook.
At the Greenhouse Tavern in Cleveland, Jonathon Sawyer uses a little bit of foie gras to create a luscious sauce for clams. "It's such a simple recipe," he says. "I just put the clams, foie gras and vinegar in a pot and just let them get to know each other for a while."
This gorgeous dish of layered shellfish and seafood is based on a recipe that sommelier Richard Betts found in a 1995 issue of F&W. He still has the original cooking-stained recipe, though the pot he makes it in is even older: a Dutch oven that's been in the Betts family since 1839. "It's pretty wild," he says. "Civil War meals were cooked in that pot!" Betts freely adapts the recipe to whatever looks best at the market, but he always follows the same formula: fish on the bottom, shellfish on the top. "It's so impressive," he says. "When you pull it out of the oven, people freak."
At Steve Corry's Five Fifty-Five in Portland, Maine, mussels from nearby Bangs Island are almost always on the menu. "People freak out if they're not there," says Corry, who often steams the mollusks in white wine and lemon juice scented with pickled cherry peppers and garlic. For this Mediterranean-inspired soup, however, Corry serves the mussels in a brothy liquid with plenty of chorizo.
Here, deliciously briny cockles are simply enhanced with white wine and scallions in a savory broth. To turn this first course into a more substantial meal, toss the cockles and broth with pasta and chopped tomatoes.
"You can't get lazier than this," says Marcia Kiesel, who simply puts clams on the hot grill and waits a minute or two for them to open and start sizzling. Then she takes them off the heat and tops them with a spicy sauce spiked with horseradish and Tabasco.
Hemant Oberoi uses seafood from India's West Coast for this bouillabaisse-like rassa. A cross between a soup and a curry, the rassa is spiked with coconut milk and laden with mussels and shrimp. Steamed basmati rice or warm naan—or both—are key for sopping up the rich, thick broth.