Payard turns on his standing mixer to whip the meringue. Wu asks if he can use a handheld mixer at home. "Sure," Payard says. "Just don't overbeat the egg whites." Payard pours hot sugar syrup into the fluffy whites, turning them glossy and sleek. Then he helps Wu fold them into the macaronade, turning the bowl with his left hand while working the spatula with his right.