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José Andrés in Haiti

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José Andrés in Haiti

The smiling child and I watch a woman frying pork, chicken, breadfruit, salt-cured fish and potatoes. My 10-year-old friend tells her that blan ("foreigner," that's me) is hungry. She hands me a plate of fritters, deep-fried flour balls called marinades, and spicy pork. It's delicious. My friend is joined by other kids, and I offer them my plate. They're shy at first but soon dig in. I buy another plate; there are smiles all around. There's rain in the hills and valleys of Haiti but comfort in this food. It lifts one's spirit, just like the children.

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