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For the past 18 years, Celestino Drago (an F&W Best New Chef 1993) has opened great restaurants around L.A., like Drago Ristorante. Drago Centro is his most ambitious yet. Anchored by an enormous glass wine-storage tower, it specializes in updated Italian food, like the squab: "It's traditional to stuff birds with plain bread," Drago says, "but I like to use focaccia with herbs; it's nicer."
Pairing: 2009 Tenutae Lageder Lagrein