The Isan province of northeast Thailand and its bright, fresh, fiery, funky flavors are finding more and more celebrants in America. One of these is chef Andy Ricker of Pok Pok fame. Here, he shares a signature Isan catfish dish called plaa duuk yaang. If you’ve never faced down a whole, bewhiskered two-pound catfish, Ricker’s recipe is a great reason to do so: The fish itself is extra-meaty, and the preparation is simple. Ricker says to slash the catfish, stuff it with lemongrass, garlic and salt, and grill over indirect heat: “Thai cooks don’t like char,” he explains.—Ben Mims

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