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Laurent Gras (an F&W Best New Chef 2002) replaced the French warhorse Ambria with a Japanese-informed, modern seafood restaurant. His ethereal treatment of prized amadai and shimaaji flown in from Tokyo rivals Japan's top sushi houses. We loved: Halibut fillet with a shaved fennel and oyster salad with chanterelles; jamón (Spanish ham) chowder.

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Photo courtesy of L20

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