When a Vietnamese Restaurant called Bunker opened across from a scrap-metal yard in Ridgewood, Queens, its beef-and-noodle pho became a hit. But chef Jimmy Tu quickly realized he had neither the time nor the space to make enough beef broth to meet demand. So he switched to a quicker but just as rich-tasting chicken pho. He builds flavor in stages, adding pan-roasted shallots and onion and then toasted spices and goji berries to the broth as it simmers. The result shows just how much he learned from his mother and aunt, and from the chefs he trained with at Manhattan’s Montrachet and Eleven Madison Park. 46-63 Metropolitan Ave.; bunkervietnamese.com. —Tina Ujlaki

Food & Wine

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