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“Chili means Halloween to me,” Grant Achatz says. When he was growing up, his mother would always serve it to him and his cousins before they went trick or treating as a way to counteract the sugar buzz to come. The smoky, spicy version here is a slightly modified version of his mother’s chili, made with ancho, pasilla and chipotle powders, plus a homemade blend of seasonings and fresh herbs.