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I've done avant-garde versions of this dish at Avenues and for the Graham Elliot opening menu. Now it has evolved, but in a classic way; I'm no longer trying to be goofy with Cheez-Its or using sous vide or tweezers. I make the dish with cheddar, crispy bacon and pearl onions. It's a simple, cheesy rice porridge, but it means a lot to me in terms of where I'm comfortable now. gebistro.com.