Chef Dream Trips: Portugal

George Mendes, an F&W Best New Chef 2011 and chef-owner of Aldea in New York, ate his way through his family's native country for his for...
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Cervejaria Ramiro, Lisbon

Ramiro’s the place for killer shellfish: They source the best, then treat them simply. For the ultimate delicacy of percebes (gooseneck barnacles), they buy from divers who go dangerously deep to pluck the juiciest ones. Back in the kitchen, they steam them with seawater to retain their briny flavor. I like to twist the crinkly brown neck to slip if off, then suck the pink meat straight off the shell. Percebes taste like the essence of the ocean—sweeter than lobster with a more substantial chew than razor clams.

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