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Tim Cushman is a master at preparing raw fish. Here he dresses salmon with a little citrus-soy dressing, then tops it with fresh ginger and chives before bathing it in a hot sesame-oil mixture. The heat from the oil cooks the salmon just slightly, creating a luxurious texture and fragrance.
Pairing: Substanial Southern French white: 2007 M. Chapoutier Les Meysonniers Crozes-Hermitage Blanc.