The iconic Ritz Paris has welcomed all manner of luminaries in its nearly 12 decades on Place Vendôme: Proust, Fitzgerald, Hemingway and Cole Porter all passed through its wrought-iron gates, and Coco Chanel made her home here for more than 30 years. Now, the hotel has emerged from a four-year, $450 million revamp, achieving that delicate balance between Old World elegance and contemporary comforts. Throughout, things simply look refreshed: Silk wall coverings shimmer, and the original boiserie glows. The first change you’ll notice is in the reception area, now transformed into a lofty, light-flooded space with 18-foot ceilings. With nearly a million mosaic tiles, the neoclassical swimming pool still looks like a Hollywood set piece; it’s now joined by the world’s first Chanel spa. We love the new patio restaurant, with its sliding roof and heated floors, and the clubby Salon Proust is the perfect spot for afternoon tea beside a roaring fire. Thankfully, the hotel didn’t mess with its most beloved haunt. Legendary barman Colin Peter Field is back at Bar Hemingway, mixing classic cocktails (like his impeccable Sidecar, left) and signature inventions such as the Serendipity (Champagne, Calvados, sugar, clarified apple juice and fresh mint). We’ll raise a glass to that. Rooms from $1,100 per night; ritzparis.com.