F&W editors ate desserts around the country to spot trends—and find these five outstanding pastry chefs.
Food & Wine
1 of 5
Sam Kincaid; Fork, Philadelphia
The daughter of a farmer, Kincaid is inspired by what she calls “the cadence of a growing season,” creating complex desserts that combine disparate flavors. “I ‘write’ and ‘rewrite’ every dessert each time I return to it,” she says."
Her Dessert, Deconstructed Bitter Almond Cream: The base for this sauce: house-made liqueur prepared with apricot pits steeped in brandy. Roasted Nectarines: Kincaid uses a tiny ring cutter to punch out the fruit. Amaretti Cookies:
“I roll the dough like gnocchi, then toss the cookies in raw sugar before baking.”
2 of 5
Sarah Rich; Rich Table, San Francisco
She is a genius at transforming familiar American desserts like s’mores, always adding a savory ingredient—fresh herbs, for instance—to balance out a bit of the sweetness.
Her Dessert, Deconstructed Chocolate Ganache: The ganache is poured over almond butter crunch on a big tray, then cut out with ring molds. Marshmallow: “I pipe marshmallow onto the ganache, then brown with a blowtorch. It tastes exactly like Fluff from the jar.”
Baby Tarragon: “The chocolate ganache and marshmallow need a fresh herbal aspect to tie them together.”
3 of 5
Greg Mosko; North Pond, Chicago
Mosko has a unique global perspective, combining elements like a Japanese custard with verjus-soaked raisins and coriander cake.
His Dessert, Deconstructed Japanese Namelaka:
“I caramelize white chocolate to
make this creamy, eggless custard.”
Coriander Cake: Toasted coriander flavors meringue-based cake. Poached Pears:“We poach Boscs in pomegranate puree for great color.” Soaked Raisins: “These are just regular Sun-Maids, steeped in verjus.”
4 of 5
Jen Yee; Lafayette, New York City
Yee’s plated desserts are homey and crowd-pleasing, as are her perfectly executed pastries. “I don’t crave foams and gelées,” she says.
Her Dessert, Deconstructed Amped-Up Raspberries:
Yee fills them with her own raspberry jam. White Chocolate Ganache:
”I use Valrhona Ivoire, but the real secret is glucose syrup, which keeps the texture ultra smooth.” Pistachio Macaron:
She makes the batter by folding Italian meringue with a paste of pistachio flour, sugar and egg whites.
5 of 5
Jared Bacheller; L’Espalier, Boston
“I love being playful, nostalgic, even silly,” says Bacheller, creator of “Through the Forest.” His whimsy coexists
with a serious fascination with science.
His Dessert, Deconstructed “Mushrooms”
: The stems are made with candy-cap-mushroom-infused cream; the top is a marshmallow. “Moss” Cake
: Chestnut flour and green tea flavor
this cake, which is blended in a Vita-Prep, then microwaved. “Maple Leaf” Tuile: The cookie batter gets blended in a Vita-Prep and dehydrated, rather than baked.
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