If any city loves an indie sensibility, Portland, Oregon, does. And one chef who helped shape the city's proud indie identity is Gabriel Rucker of Le Pigeon. Brains, tongue, lips, feet—Rucker uses all kinds of animal parts in French-American dishes, such as squab-head soup. Even salads like his escarole hearts with pickled squash and sage dressing have that I'll-do-what-I-want attitude. It has made Le Pigeon one of Portland's toughest reservations, and has also spawned a cookbook, Le Pigeon, out this fall. A bistro offshoot, Little Bird, is more traditional; but, with dishes like snail tortellini, it still has the Rucker vibe.