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Stuart Brioza has a sixth sense for finding the deliciousness in every kind of food he makes. At the idiosyncratic State Bird Provisions in San Francisco, he brings a freewheeling American attitude to the Chinese dim sum experience, serving globally inflected small plates, both from a menu and from roving carts. Dishes like guinea hen dumplings in broth and raw oysters with spicy kohlrabi are quiet works of genius. Next up for Brioza and his pastry-chef wife, Nicole Krasinski: The Progress, which is due to open early next year in the same turn-of-the-century building that houses State Bird.