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Talented young chef Chris Kostow arrived at this famous wine country resort in 2008 and has since transformed its food. His superlative modern Californian menu owes as much to the Napa Valley Reserve garden at the property’s entrance to his mastery of avant-garde cooking techniques. The 9- to 20-course tasting menus pair imaginative dishes like thinly-sliced breasts of squab topped with cocoa nibs and grated frozen foie gras with selections from a 1,200-bottle-strong wine list that emphasizes regional vineyards. meadowood.com