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Ron Siegel has remained faithful to the Ritz through its revamp of the formal Dining Room into the slightly more casual Parallel 37, which opened in December. Gone are the crystal chandeliers; in are the bare-wood tables. Siegel has also overhauled his menu: Instead of a fancy eight-course tasting, he now offers à la carte options that range from inspired comfort food (polenta fries, Sichuan peppercorn-spiced chicken wings) to those that hint at his predilections toward French and Japanese technique (sea bass cooked en papillote, kampachi sashimi with an orange-ginger marinade). parallel37sf.com