The secret to perfect biscuits is hotly contested: Lard or butter? Milk or buttermilk? Baking powder or soda? (Or both?) Every Southern home cook has an opinion, but these days, chefs from all over the country are joining in the conversation, digging through old church cookbooks and grandma’s recipe box to find the perfect version. Served simply with butter and jam, or as vehicles for fried chicken, sausage or sawmill gravy, these flaky little numbers are all delicious.—Anna Watson Carl.

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