Auberge Stays in the French Countryside
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"I want to show the wild side of the produce I cook with, so sometimes I treat it with violence," says chef Alexandre Gauthier, who owns this auberge in Madelaine-Sous-Montreuil, Pas-de-Calais. Instead of serving lobster tail in a pleasant cream sauce, he roasts it in a super-hot oven, takes it out of the shell and sends it to the table in a nest of smoldering juniper boughs. What Gauthier calls his "radical and singular, pertinent and impertinent" cooking has made him just about the hottest young chef in France.