America’s Most Decadent Potato Dishes

We roast them and fry them; we pulverize them with butter and drown them in cream; they get boiled and steamed, grated and riced: The ...

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Canlis, Seattle

Twice-baked potato, $8
This Seattle gem now benefits from having the talented, Eleven Madison Park-trained chef Jason Franey in the kitchen, but the menu continues to include a few nods to Canlis’s midcentury roots. The restaurant opened in 1950, with a then-radical twice-baked potato on the menu; it is still offered, alongside modern dishes like cold-smoked salmon and uni panna cotta. Franey roasts big russet potatoes, scoops out the flesh and mashes it in a bowl with plenty of fat—about three pounds of butter and four pounds of sour cream per batch of 25 potatoes. Pecorino Romano, green onions and bacon go into the bowl, too, along with a few good handfuls of salt. Franey spoons the luscious mixture into cast-iron crocks, tops them with more pecorino and sticks them in the oven to bubble and crisp before serving. “The twice-baked potato is the epitome of decadence,” says the chef. “It’s a filling and beautiful thing.”

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