We roast them and fry them; we pulverize them with butter and drown them in cream; they get boiled and steamed, grated and riced: The humble potato takes an awful beating, but the ancient crop is entering a golden age in the American kitchen. Versatile and fundamentally satisfying, potatoes are a favorite canvas for chefs who use the earthy tubers as a starting point for deluxe preparations.—Jordana Rothman

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July 26, 2016

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