I don’t know the Vietnamese word for this—the wrinkled hawker in the Tan Dinh Market did not have a name for it. I imagine it’s nothing more complicated than fried chicken head, or maybe it’s got a glamorous name like Sweet Dark Crown of Special Bird. Chefs live for this kind of stuff and Stuart Brioza and I couldn’t keep our sticky fingers away from this simple yet addictive treat. The sweet soy glaze makes the skin taste like candy. The neck meat is tender and pulls gently from the nuggets of bone. The beak, eyes, coxcomb and tongue all crumble in your mouth into a texture that can only be described as chicken-flavored popcorn.