I read a review recently of Simpson's-in-the-Strand, a restaurant that opened in 1850, in which the writer described the restaurant as "old-fashioned." It went on to say: "Simpson's does not look like a place that changes." That could have been written yesterday—but is actually from 1899. The reviewer, Lieutenant-Colonel Newnham-Davis (how many restaurants reviewers nowadays have a military rank?), went on to say: "carvers. . . leisurely push carving dishes, with plated covers, running on wheels, from customer to customer." Simpson's is a bit faded round the edges now, but in the wood paneled-dining room, white-coated waiters still push huge joints of roast beef around on trolleys. In a city like London with its vibrant culinary scene, it's easy to get swept up in the new—in pop-ups and food trucks, in Instagram-friendly dishes and on-trend vegetables—and forget about the familiar faces. But the city's longest-established restaurants also have some amazing food to offer. Here are 7 old-school London restaurants that aren't just old; eating at them is like stepping back in time. - Henry Jeffreys

Food & Wine

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