Union isn’t a seafood house per se, but chef Ethan Stowell is so adept with all things finned and shelled that it would almost be a shame to order anything else here. Striped bass, coho salmon, ahi tuna, octopus, and Dungeness crabs—bought daily from local purveyors—are prepared lightly here, in a way that lets the fresh flavor shine through: perhaps pan-roasted or accompanied by an artichoke purée or basil-infused oil. The airy dining room is modern without feeling cold: high ceilings, red walls, and mural-size paintings are tempered by simple dark-wood tables topped with candles and regal stemware. The place fills nightly with Pioneer Square art dealers, foodies, and wine enthusiasts (the excellent 175-label wine list draws heavily on Europe as well as California and the Pacific Northwest). Though the place is fine for a romantic evening, it’s most popular with groups—the more people in your party, the more delicious appetizers you can share.
Tip: If you don’t have time for a meal, at least stop by the bar for some of that great wine, plus appetizers like seared scallops simmered in a light vegetable-based broth.
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From Food & Wine , OCT 2008
Ethan Stowell of Seattle’s Union, an F&W Best New Chef 2008, prepares unbelievably satisfying...MORE
From Food & Wine , JUN 2005
Chef Ethan Stowell (formerly of Nell's) changes Union's menu almost daily, and for fans, that's both a pro and a con. If you fall for one of his dishes—bluenose bass with fennel and lobster salad, say, or braised rabbit leg with garganelli pasta—there's no guarantee you'll ever see it on the menu again....MORE
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