One of the last vestiges of pre-war architecture in Shinjuku, the building housing the flagship Tsunahachi tempura restaurant (there are now dozens of them all over Japan) stands out amid the nearby skyscrapers. Inside, diners sit at a no-frills counter watching as white-uniformed chefs deep fry shrimp, squid, lotus roots, mushrooms, and a variety of fresh-caught fish, served in large portions with dipping sauce and clam miso. Diners choose the number of courses (some include sashimi.) Private tatami rooms are available for larger parties.
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