Vermont-born chef Seamus Mullen, a star student of Spanish cuisine, found inspiration for this West Village restaurant in the rustic cider bars of the northern Asturias region. In the front, there’s a small bar with a great selection of sherrys, cava and extra-tart Spanish ciders; in the back, Mullen and his staff cook most of the food in a custom-built, wood-burning oven. Some of the best dishes have a strong hit of smoke: brussel sprouts are frizzled until dark brown and served with little chunks of pork belly, lamb breast is grilled and served with farro and cauliflower, and a large paella for sharing, is cooked over the open flame so it gets an authentically crispy bottom crust.
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