Food & Wine

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3640 Sacramento St.
San Francisco, CA
(415) 931-5100

Plundering the appetizer menu is a smart move at Spruce, a masculine chocolate-colored boîte in Presidio Heights where neighborhood swells wash down grilled bavette steak and sinful duck fat–fried potatoes with big-ticket Cabs with prerecession abandon. Among the many reasons to love Spruce are a deep, serious Riesling list; chef Mark Sullivan’s awesome house-made charcuterie; and his knack for sneaking hyper-boutique bitterish greens even into meatier dishes like bacon-bolstered sweetbreads lyonnaise. Allowing guests to order the full affordable bar menu—great burgers and boudin blanc—in the fancy main room is a welcome populist gesture.

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From the May 2008 Food & Wine Go List

Although it occupies a sprawling space, Spruce is a hard place to get a table. Mark Sullivan (an F&W Best New Chef 2002) prepares seasonal American dishes using as much produce from the restaurant’s farm in the Santa Cruz Mountains as possible. Complementing his cooking is a dense 46-page wine list filled with cult labels.

We loved: Butter-poached lobster with gnocchi and braised lettuce; raw and cooked zucchini salad.

Last updated May 2008 lastArticle = 7/2009 and lastAward =

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