My F&W
quick save (...)


357 6th Ave.
New York , NY , United States
(212) 414-3088

Finding it impossible to score that online reservation at David Chang’s 12-seat Momofuku Ko? Despair not: Seek nirvana behind the maplewood counter at Soto (where reservations are, blissfully, available). Why this blond, serene spot run by a bona fide Japanese genius isn’t an impossible booking is one of New York’s great mysteries: maybe people simply aren’t ordering right. An ace with sashimi and sushi, Sotohiro Kosugi deserves his place in the world’s gastro-god pantheon for his jewel-like variations on sea urchin. He fries nutty sea-fresh uni blobs into a lacy tempura; dehydrates uni into a mysterious orange dust that highlights butter-smooth slabs of monkfish-liver mousse; and dollops uni into a trompe-l’oeil urchin shell made of squid filaments and shredded seaweed. Each exquisite morsel is a treat of a lifetime.

From the From the May 2008 Food & Wine Go List

Although it seems unlikely to find a magical little restaurant along the drab stretch of Sixth Avenue north of Bleecker, <a href="/bestnewchefs/?year=1997&chef=DC55D059-1F81-47F9-A0098B703665EBF5">Sotohiro Kosugi (an F&W Best New Chef 1997)</a> has created one. Served in an all-white dining room, Kosugi’s menu of always-surprising raw-fish dishes makes ample use of high-flavor ingredients like sea urchin, toro, shiso leaf and sweet miso.

We loved: Sea urchin wrapped in thinly sliced squid and shiso and served with a quail egg and a soy reduction; ginger-marinated geoduck clam salad with spicy radish sprouts.

Last updated 2012-03-06 16:24:33 UTC
You might also like
The Dish
Receive delicious recipes and smart wine advice 4x per week in this e-newsletter.
The Wine List Weekly pairing plus best bottles to buy.
F&W Daily One sensational dish served fresh every day.

Congratulations to Mei Lin, winner of Top Chef Season 12.

Join celebrity chefs, renowned winemakers and epicurean insiders at the culinary world's most spectacular weekend, the FOOD & WINE Classic in Aspen, June 19-21.