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Pizzeria Gino Sorbillo

32 Via Tribunali
Naples , Italy

Sorbillo, who is only 37, has a face from a Bronzino portrait, the kiss-kiss populist touch of a politico (he recently ran in a mayoral primary), and rock-star status among Napoli’s pizz-addicts. Sorbillo delivers an exemplary crust: on the robust, chewy side, but artfully blistered and bubbly. Neapolitans will insist that condimenti (toppings) should never—ever!—detract from the impasto (crust). But Sorbillo’s do. Behold the lyrical Mediterranean combo of shaved artichokes, Vesuvian Piennolo cherry tomatoes, aged goat cheese, and basil. Or the gutsy homage to the black Caserta pig, combining its strutto (lard) and salami with a salty, earthy, black-olive flourish. The classic margherita practically bursts with red, white, and green.

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