it’s a wood-beamed but mercifully unkitschy English pub that’s less than an hour by train from London, in the Berkshire countryside near Windsor Castle. The updated British cooking, by chef Dominic Chapman, is straightforward and features superb produce. The wine list is carefully considered, with some serious Bordeaux and Burgundy bottles that are ungreedily priced—a 1998 Château Haut-Bages Monpelou, for instance, comes in at around $55.
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