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9 Vorm Wurzburger Tor
Rothenburg , Germany http://villamittermeier.de/
49 98 619-4540

In the busy basement enoteca, decidedly less pricey and formal than the fine-dining room upstairs, dark walnut tables are full of hip young locals; it’s like being back in the 21st century. The owner, 42-year-old Christian Mittermeier, is a voluble, bearlike man who apprenticed as a butcher as a teenager, before managing a small hotel just outside of town.

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