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Restaurant La Cape

9 Allée de la Morlette
Cenon , France
33-5/57-80-24-25

Even the townsfolk were atwitter about the somewhat bizarre eatery in suburban Cenon. With a menu as abstract, the ambience is unlike that of your usual Michelin-starred establishment—no fine linens or Riedel stemware here. The setting feels like a suburban house in the San Fernando Valley decorated by a sponge-paint-happy art therapist. The plastic chairs and low-budget lawn umbrellas on the patio can be misleading, but the expertly turned out, eclectic dishes (pigeon tacos, foie gras with seaweed, frog tempura with watercress) are a steal if you stick to the fixed menu.

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