In a modern space decorated in Mondrianesque reds and a nostalgic portrait of the owner’s Javanese forebears, order the rice feast, and soon enough a slew of spicy stews and spicier condiments will land on your table. Here’s an intriguing egg dish with a chile-spiked sambal; a mini-stick of caramelized goat satay; pork-belly nuggets in a dark, syrupy ketjap manis sauce. Eat them with helpings of fragrant rice, dabs of vinegary-sweet cucumber atjar, roasted coconut sprinkles, and crunchy forkfuls of sambal goreng kentang, the addictive caramel-fried shoestring potatoes. After five minutes your mouth vibrates with turmeric and galangal, and throbs with chiles. Thank heaven for the soothing-sweet bite of plush pisang goreng (fried banana) that comes to the rescue.
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