Bombay-born chef Vikram Sunderam has created a novel concept at this busy, buzzy home to sharp-dressed multiculturals: take Indian street food and dress it up with A-list ingredients like black cod and diver scallops, then pair the results with wine (although traditionalists won't go thirsty—Kingfisher beer is on the menu, too). Palak chaat, a tangy blend of crispy, barely fried baby spinach tossed with yogurt and tamarind, is a particular standout. Much of the fun comes from mixing and matching a multitude of small dishes: spicy kebabs, creamy curries, and Technicolor chutneys. Stick with these, as main courses offer less variety. Inventive martinis have a subtropical twist, like the Spicy Queen, spiked with star fruit and chili pepper.
Tip: Skip the open kitchen (where seats are too low to see the cooking) and the bar (where tables are too low to eat comfortably), and grab a spot in the sleek, curry-toned main room.