The concise wine list here is a paean to France’s vin naturel gurus, such as the Jura region’s anti-sulfur crusader Pierre Overnoy and Beaujolais renegade Philippe Jambon. The same ethos rules in the kitchen, where the gifted Arpège veteran Sven Chartier roasts chicken from the poultry prince Pierre du Plantier and assembles beautiful salads with heirloom vegetables from the biodynamic potager he shares with his mentor, Alain Passard.
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From the From the May 2008 Food & Wine Go List
Pierre Jancou, formerly of <strong>La Crémerie</strong>, pulls corks and stirs pots at his new wine bar and shop in the Passage des Panoramas, Paris's oldest covered arcade. Jancou's specialties are charcuterie (such as rich pork rillettes) and wine.
We loved: Rabbit stew with golden roasted potato slices.
Insider tip: Jancou’s English-language website, , is a fantastic source for the city’s best natural wine shops, restaurants and wine bars.