An Italian restaurant on a quiet street in a far-from-fashionable area, Portofino is this year’s most improbable hit. The interior is modest, but the place has attracted celebrities like Beyoncé and Benny Andersson of ABBA. Its secret is simple: sophisticated treatments of classics, like osso buco and fettuccine with veal and truffles.

We loved: Tasting menu of antipasti, tortelloni with lobster and mascarpone, veal tournedos, and chocolate cake with lingonberries and mint sorbet.