The heritage hardware store sign still hangs beside this 83-seat pizzeria, where the chef is an alumni from the Chez Panisse kitchen. Worn wooden floors and exposed brick match the restaurant’s simple Italian food. Start with a cannellini bean soup loaded with Jerusalem artichokes, parsley, and spinach, and then move on to the thin-crust pizzas (perhaps a potato, rosemary, and pancetta pie with fontina cheese) or main courses that change with the seasons (like the braised pork with polenta, preserved lemon, and endive). Arugula, farm eggs, and Calabrian peppers make for unusual extra pizza toppings.
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