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From the From the May 2008 Food & Wine Go List
This old-fashioned place in the Testaccio neighborhood, complete with grumpy waiters, makes no concessions to tourists. The decor, including the murals of ancient Roman scenes, hasn’t changed for about 50 years—and neither have the extraordinary pastas: carbonara, <em>amatriciana</em> and the not-for-beginners <em>pajata</em> (made with calf intestines).
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